If your toilet tends to rock when you sit on it, it is time to take some steps to stop that rock!  Leveling a toilet is not a difficult task.  Leveling a toilet is different than leveling the WATER level in a toilet.  Leveling a toilet is necessary for a number of reasons.   Whether you are installing a new toilet, or you have been dealing with an existing rocking toilet, leveling a toilet is a simple task.

Leveling a toilet with LESS than a ¼ inch gap

Shims are a great way to level a toilet, as long as the gap is not more than ¼ inch.  NEVER use wood shims.  Bathrooms tend to be damp and wood shims will rot, which will cause even more problems.  Clear plastic shims are available at most plumbing supply stores.  You may need to loosen the hold down bolts.  Insert shims until they are tight and the toilet does not rock.  Take a level and place it on top of the toilet to be sure it is level.  Cut off the exposed portion.  Retighten the hold down bolts. 

Leveling a toilet that is MORE than ¼ inch gap

Materials and Tools:

• Plastic shims
• Pencil
• Epoxy mortar
• Wax paper
• Latex caulk
• Utility knife

 If your gap is more than ¼ inch, shims will not be enough.  The steps below will help you to level a toilet the proper way.

Steps for leveling a toilet with more than a ¼ inch gap

1. Make a pencil mark on the floor around the base of the toilet.
2. Place plastic shims about 1/8 inch from the pencil line.  
3. Mix up a small batch of epoxy mortar.  Place a continuous mound of epoxy mortar between the outside of the closet flange and inside of the pencil line, being careful not to disturb the shims.
4. Place a layer of wax paper over the mortar, without covering the closet flange, and lower the toilet into place.  Anchor the toilet.  
5. The wax ring should be seated on the closet flange and the excess mortar should ooze out around the base of the toilet.
6. Wring out a damp cloth to remove the excess mortar, leaving a slight recess at the joint.  
7. When the mortar is set, use a utility knife with a sharp blade to trim the excess wax paper.  
8. Install a bead of latex caulk over the mortar at the joint between the bottom of the toilet and the floor.

Using the wax paper prevents the china at the underside of the toilet from taking the moisture out of the mortar.  This will prevent your toilet and tile floor from sealing.  This is important if you would need to remove the toilet later on.

Remember that if your gap is less than ¼ inch, you may be able to simply shim up the toilet.  You do not have to deal with a rocking toilet anymore.  Leveling a toilet is a simple DIY project that can make a difference in your bathroom.

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Comments (23)

• |2009-08-01 07:48:32 Da Plumber  - Levelling a toilet
  I'm curious about the use of shims when levelling a toilet with a gap greater than 1/4 inch. What purpose do they serve if the epoxy mortar is being used? The gap I'm attempting to overcome is ~1/2 inch and the shims I purchased require 4 stacked one on top of the other in order to come close to touching the bottom of the new toilet. I just want to be sure I understand this before I proceed. Thanks.
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• |2009-12-16 13:06:58 DanW  - Leveling a toilet less 1/4"
  That worked great. I was afraid I needed to take out the toilet and replace the wax seal.
  No leaks!
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• |2010-01-22 18:56:31 Anonymous  - re: Levelling a toilet
  Da Plumber wrote:

  I'm curious about the use of shims when levelling a toilet with a gap greater than 1/4 inch. What purpose do they serve if the epoxy mortar is being used? The gap I'm attempting to overcome is ~1/2 inch and the shims I purchased require 4 stacked one on top of the other in order to come close to touching the bottom of the new toilet. I just want to be sure I understand this before I proceed. Thanks.
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• |2010-01-24 15:57:23 Anonymous
  I'd guess the shims are to support the toilet and keep it level while the mortar cures. Otherwise the toilet may slump to one side or the other.
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• |2010-01-24 16:25:37 Anonymous
  Ok, so if I use a bed of mortar to create a foundation for the base what happens when I replace the toilet and the new base has a different footprint?
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• |2010-03-26 19:12:47 Lumber-Jack  - Grinding the casting to level
  My toilet rocked, so I checked the underside with a straight edge and found that the casting was not even on the ribbing and was causing the rock. So I ground it smooth with an angle grinder and stone grinding disk. It no longer rocks and there is no need for shims. Just do not take the grinder close to the edge of the finished surface or you may get chipping, but it was very easy to accomplish.
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• |2010-04-18 17:11:45 InfinityPlayer  - Rocking toilet and wooden floor
  I live in an old house. It's 672 sq f, and entirely of Cyprus wood, including the bathroom. It disturbs us that the toilet rocks as badly as it does. This wood doesn't rot. So it naturally concerns us, cos it rocks quite a bit. Would these shimies work for us too?
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• |2010-09-02 15:48:35 Rick Englund  - Johnny Shims
  Regarding plastic shims: Google Johnny Shim if you want shims specifically designed for toilets and porcelain bath fixtures. Epoxy mortar is too permanent for how many times I have to replace toilets in my own home.
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• |2010-11-06 17:05:35 Joe Fox
  If your concerned about the mortar being permanent just place a sheet of plastic wrap onthe floor first and pour your mortar on it then use your wax paper before placing the toilet on top. The plastic wrap will conform to the floor and stop the mortar from bonding to it. That will make future toilet changes easier.
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• |2010-12-06 13:05:16 John Reeves  - toilet bowl not level
  toilet is approximately 1/4 inch low in the back. It is not rocking around but does not flush properly.
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• |2010-12-20 11:39:03 John K.  - Thank you!
  To the author of the instructions on this site: Thank you! I have successfully leveled my toilet. The process went a tad different for me but there were many suggestions on this site that I followed. Your help has made my little project a real success (which my father-in-law who knows my history all too well will find quite suprising). My tile floor was installed incorrectly when the house was built 10 years ago. There was 3/4" difference in the floor from the front to the back of the toilet base. Using a piece of 3/4" flooring I traced the toilet and cut it out of the flooring (an old left over piece). The wood was used as a mold. I used a univeral patch and skimcoat instead of the mortor epoxy to create a level (or nearly so) surface on which to set the toilet. I let it set for about 15-20 minutes then put the toilet in place (on top of wax paper - great suggestion). I used my body weight at first but soon started using the anchor bolts to finish leveling/securi...
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• |2011-01-22 09:47:57 Paul B  - Leveling Toilet
  What do you do when the shims don't stay in place and keeep coming out?
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• |2011-01-23 15:13:05 johnny on the spot
  seal the seam with silicone. This will also help secure the toilet to the floor.
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• |2011-02-24 04:31:31 Rick Englund  - toilet shims
  Look at johnny shims. They have little saddle shaped tops so they stay in place.
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• |2011-03-31 21:40:42 Greg  - Cutting Shims
  I just put in some plastic shims on my toilet, but wasn't sure how to trip them down. How do you cut the plastic shims after they're in place? Is there a tool that's best to use for that? I tried to use a few things on mine, but it was a little difficult.
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• |2011-04-08 21:49:47 John  - Toilet Leveling
  My new toilet is raised 1/8 inch in the front and is rock solid with no movement.
  
  Do I have a problem? I've had suggestions of simply caulking the gap (unsightly) or repositioning the toilet to allow the gap to be in the rear. The old toilet sat perfectly level.
  
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• |2011-05-01 19:28:11 Murph  - Toilet Leveling
  I used shower pan liner. It is usually used to line the floor when instaling a shower. I cut a piece slightly larger than the toilet. Sometimes it may be necessary to use two or more layers depending on your needs. It works great and also works as a secondary seal. A rhino could sit on your towlet. I've done this on more than 5 different toilets for the family.
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• |2011-08-29 19:49:20 Jason  - Jason
  I have a problem with an install. I just replaced a floor from a leaking toilet. New floor, new tile, new flange on top of tile floor. The floor is level. When I set the toilet on top of the flange without a wax ring it sets flat and level, but when I add the wax ring it rocks and won't set flat to the floor. What am I doing wrong or what can I do to fix this? Thanks
  
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• |2012-01-18 17:07:33 Roger
  Try removing the plastic funnel if the wax ring has one. Either that or buy a wax ring that has no funnel. If it only rocks when you put the wax ring on it must be that plastic funnel making it rock.
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• |2011-08-29 19:57:15 Jason  - Toilet Leveling
  I have a problem with an install. I had a leaky toilet and had to replace the floor. I have a new flange ontop of a level tile floor. When I set the toilet on top of the flange everything sets flush and level. But when I add the wax ring the toilet will not set flat or flush to the floor. What am I doing wrong? or what can I do to fix this?
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• |2011-08-30 07:11:55 John  - Jason - Toilet Leveling
  Sounds like the wax ring is taking up any clearance between the toilet and flange. You gotta have the wax ring to seal so rock the toilet (tank off) until it seats.
  
  My problem was like yours. Everything fit fine until I put the wax ring in. It turned out to be shim inserts in the flange (looks like a funnel). Once removed, the toilet sat perfectly.
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• |2011-12-08 01:47:46 isaac
  Hi,
  
  Me and a friend replace a toilet earlier. When we tried to tighten the hold down bolts, one of them became loose. Do we have to redo the whole process again? Do we also need to buy a new wax ring? The flange my be broken as well. What do we do? Your help is much appreciated. Thank you.
  
  isaac
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• |2012-01-18 17:35:41 Roger
  Yeah well, you probably need to pull it up and see what broke. Most likely it was just the bolt. You will need a new wax ring and you're gonna need to shim it before you try bolting it down again. it needs to be sturdy and level BEFORE you tighten those bolts down.
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